If you've financed a car, your insurance choice usually isn't fully up to you. Most lenders require comprehensive cover as a condition of the loan.
View all PostsIf you've financed a car, your insurance choice usually isn't fully up to you. Most lenders require comprehensive cover as a condition of the loan. Here's why, and what the different levels actually mean.
The short answer. If the car is financed, the lender will almost always require comprehensive cover for the life of the loan. Third party property cover pays for damage you do to someone else's car, not for your own, and that leaves the lender with nothing to recover if your car is written off.
It helps to see the loan and the policy as two halves of the same arrangement. The lender has lent money against a physical thing that can be crashed, burnt or stolen, so the loan contract almost always carries a clause about keeping that thing insured. Understanding which level of cover does what, and what the lender's interest in the policy means, saves you finding out at claim time. What follows is general information about how cover and a secured loan interact, not a recommendation about any particular policy.
Worth clearing up first, because the names overlap and the products do not. Compulsory third party insurance, sometimes called a green slip depending on where you live, covers injury or death caused to other people in a motor accident. It is compulsory, and in some states and territories it is bundled into your registration while in others you choose the insurer yourself.
What it does not do is pay for damage to any vehicle at all, including the one the lender holds as security. Every level of cover described below sits on top of CTP rather than replacing it.
Covers damage you cause to other people's property or vehicles. It does not cover your own car at all. If you're at fault in an accident, your car's repair or replacement cost comes out of your own pocket.
It is the cheapest level for a reason. The financial risk it removes is the one that can be genuinely enormous, since the other vehicle might be worth many times yours, but it leaves your own car entirely on your side of the ledger. On a financed car that means the loan keeps running while the asset is in pieces.
The same as above, plus cover if your own car is stolen or damaged by fire. Still doesn't cover accidental damage to your own vehicle from a crash you're at fault for.
It closes two of the ways a car can disappear and leaves the most common one open. Collision is the everyday risk, and it is the one this level does not touch.
Covers damage to your own car regardless of fault, plus damage you cause to others, theft, fire, and generally weather-related events like hail or flood (though it's worth checking the specific policy for exclusions). This is the level of cover almost every lender requires while you have a car loan.
Comprehensive does not mean everything. Policies commonly exclude wear and tear, mechanical or electrical breakdown, damage while the car is being driven by an unlisted driver where the policy lists drivers, driving under the influence, and use the policy does not cover, such as ride share or business use on a policy written for private use.
The product disclosure statement sets all of this out. It is dry reading and it is the only place the answers actually live, so it is worth going through the exclusions section once before you need it rather than once you do.
The car is the lender's security for the loan. If it's written off and you only had third party cover, there's no payout to help settle what you still owe. The lender's security has effectively disappeared with nothing behind it. Comprehensive cover protects both you and the lender's position.
On a secured car loan the lender registers its interest on the Personal Property Securities Register, which is the national register of security interests in things other than land. That registration is what makes the claim behave the way it does. The lender is usually noted on the policy as an interested party, so on a total loss the insurer settles with the lender first and any balance comes to you.
Letting cover lapse is generally a breach of the loan contract, not just an insurance problem. Depending on the terms, a lender can treat it as a default. Some contracts allow the lender to arrange cover itself and add the cost to your balance, which is rarely the cheapest way to end up insured.
Practically, if you change insurers mid loan, tell the lender and make sure the new policy notes their interest. A gap of a few days between policies is the kind of small administrative thing that becomes a large problem in the week it matters.
Blunt version: the payout is about the car's value, and your loan balance has nothing to do with it.
An agreed value policy fixes the sum insured when the policy is written or renewed, so you know the figure in advance. A market value policy leaves it to be assessed at claim time based on what the car was worth immediately before the loss, which can be lower than you expected, particularly if values have moved or the car has high kilometres.
Either way there is an excess to subtract, and some policies apply more than one, for instance an additional excess for a young or inexperienced driver. On a total loss, the amount reaching the lender is the assessed value less any excess and less unpaid premium, which is usually a smaller number than the one in your head.
Comprehensive insurance pays out the car's current market value, which can be less than what you still owe on the loan, especially early in the term. That's a separate gap that comprehensive insurance alone doesn't close. GAP insurance is the product designed specifically for that (we've covered this in detail in our GAP insurance guide).
Whether that shortfall is likely on your loan depends on your deposit, your term, whether there is a balloon, and how quickly the particular car loses value. It is arithmetic you can do on your own numbers rather than a question with one right answer.
Insurance offered alongside finance is regulated differently from insurance you go out and buy. Add-on insurance sold alongside finance in Australia is subject to a deferred sales period, meaning there is a legislated pause, generally at least four days, between committing to the car or the finance and the point where the add-on product can be sold to you.
During that period the seller can answer questions and give you information, but cannot ask for the sale. It exists so the insurance decision is made separately from the pressure of the vehicle purchase. Comprehensive motor insurance is treated differently and is not caught by the deferral, which is why the cover your lender requires can be arranged straight away while products such as GAP cover cannot be signed on the spot.
The practical consequence is that you have time. Use it to compare cover on the same terms rather than accepting whatever is in front of you because the paperwork is already open.
Beyond those three, check who is listed as a driver and whether that matches who actually drives the car, whether the policy covers the use you put the car to, and what the new replacement terms are if the car is written off in its first years. Also check how the insurer defines a total loss, since a repairable car and a written off car are handled very differently while a loan is attached.
Have the loan settlement date in mind as well. Cover generally needs to be in place from the moment you take possession, not from the day the first repayment comes out.
Comprehensive cover isn't just a lender requirement to tick a box. It's genuinely the level of protection that makes sense while there's still a loan attached to the car. Compare City can point you toward it as part of your finance application, without pushing you toward one insurer over another.
The levels themselves are simple once the names stop getting in the way. CTP covers people, third party covers other people's property, fire and theft adds two named risks, and comprehensive covers your own car as well. What changes on a financed car is that the policy is doing a job for two parties at once, and the detail of how a claim is paid matters to both of you.
Usually not. Comprehensive cover is normally a condition of a secured car loan, and the loan contract says so. Dropping to third party while the loan is running can put you in breach of the agreement.
The lender can treat it as a breach, and some will arrange cover themselves and add the cost to your loan. Beyond the contract, the real risk is being uninsured on an asset you still owe money on.
On a total loss the insurer generally pays the lender first, up to what is owing, and anything left over goes to you. If the payout is less than the balance, the shortfall is still your debt.
Agreed value fixes the payout figure up front, so you know how it compares with your loan balance. Market value is decided at claim time and can land under what you owe. Agreed value costs more, and that certainty is what you are paying for.
Not specifically. The insurer pays what the car is worth or the agreed value, not what your contract says you owe. If a balloon leaves the loan above the car's value, that difference is the gap people take GAP cover for.
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